How to Hem Dress Pants at Home with a Simple Straight Stitch

 

Tired of dealing with bad-fitting dress pants? You don’t need expensive alterations or specialized equipment to achieve a professional-looking hem. With this step-by-step guide, you can hem your dress pants at home using just a straight stitch and a few basic tools. Let’s get started!

Why Hemming Dress Pants Is Different

Unlike casual jeans with visible topstitching, dress pants often feature an invisible blind hem to maintain a clean, sleek appearance. While blind hemming requires a dedicated machine or hand stitching, you can achieve a stylish and functional hem by creating a cuff using a simple straight stitch.

What You’ll Need

• Measuring tape
• Fabric scissors or pinking shears
• Pins
• Iron
• Sewing machine with a straight stitch setting
• Matching thread

Step 1: Determine Your Hem Length

Start by determining how long you want your pants to be.

1. Put the pants on and mark where you want the hem to fall. Typically, the hem should sit just above the shoe for a clean break.
2. Use a measuring tape to find the outseam length (from the waistband to the hemline). In this example, the outseam is 39.75 inches.
3. Mark this measurement on the fabric as your hemline.

Step 2: Plan Your Cuff

For this hem, we’ll create a cuff for added weight and style.

1. From the hemline, measure down the desired cuff height (e.g., 1 ⅘ inches to 2 inches). Mark this as your cuff line.
2. From the cuff line, measure an additional 3 inches. This allowance will hide the raw edge of the fabric. Mark this as your cut line.

Step 3: Cut and Prep the Fabric

Using your cut line as a guide:

1. Cut off the excess fabric
1. If you’re using pinking shears, you can cut directly along the line to prevent fraying.
2. If using straight scissors, add an extra ¼ to ½ inch for a fold-over edge.
2. Press the raw edge under by ½ inch to create a clean fold.

Step 4: Sew the First Fold

1. Turn the pants inside out.
2. Fold the fabric up to your first cuff mark (the line in the middle) and pin in place.

3. Sew a straight stitch around the edge of this fold to secure it. Start at a side seam for a clean finish.

Step 5: Form the Cuff

1. Turn the pants right side out.
2. Fold up the amount of cuff you marked earlier (e.g., 2 inches). Make sure the seams align perfectly.
3. Pin the cuff in place and press it flat.

Step 6: Secure the Cuff

1. Use a technique called stitching in the ditch to secure the cuff. This involves sewing directly into the seam line where the cuff meets the pant leg, making the stitches nearly invisible.
2. Use matching thread for a seamless look and stitch carefully to avoid visible stitches.

Step 7: Final Press

Give the pants a final press to smooth out the fabric and set the cuff in place. This will ensure a polished, professional appearance.

The Result

You now have a clean, tailored hem on your dress pants using only a straight stitch. The inside will look neat, and the outside will showcase your stylish cuff.

Need More Help? Check out Primo Tailoring in Erie, PA for the best tailoring around!