It's Time to Ditch the Five-Pocket Pant
Traditional slant-pocket khakis are making a comeback, and the four brands I think you should know about.
For the last decade, the five-pocket pant has been everywhere. And I get it. They're comfortable, familiar. They're basically jeans pretending to be chinos.
But I think it's time we started moving away from them.
We're seeing a return to more traditional menswear, and one of my favorite parts of that shift is the comeback of the classic slant-pocket khaki. It's a small change that can make a surprisingly big difference in how you look.
First, What Is a Five-Pocket Pant?
The name is pretty literal. Five-pocket pants have five pockets: two in the back, two in the front, and that little coin pocket tucked inside one of the front pockets.
Sound familiar? That's because it's the same layout as your favorite pair of jeans.
And that's really the point. Five-pocket pants borrow their construction from denim, with curved front pockets and a more casual appearance.
Traditional khakis, on the other hand, generally have slanted front pockets, cleaner lines, and a more tailored appearance.
Neither is necessarily better, but they communicate two different things.
The five-pocket pant says casual. The slant-pocket khaki says you put a little more thought into getting dressed, even when you didn't.
Why I Think Slant-Pocket Khakis Are the Next Move
As more guys rediscover classic American style, Ivy League clothing, and traditional menswear, we're seeing trousers move away from the skinny, jean-inspired look that dominated for years.
And I think that's a good thing.
A proper pair of khakis can be worn with a T-shirt and sneakers just as easily as with a button-down, sport coat, and loafers. They give you the comfort of everyday pants without making every outfit look like you're wearing jeans.
They're also incredibly forgiving when it comes to building a wardrobe. You don't need to reinvent how you dress. Just replace your usual five-pocket chinos with a traditional pair, and you'll notice the difference.
My Four Favorite Khakis
I wanted to put together a short list of the brands I think are getting this right.
Full disclosure: I sell some of these at Primo Tailoring, but I've also included brands I don't carry because I think they're worth your attention.
1. PennBilt — The Authentic
My Top Pick | Made in America
These are my personal favorites, and for good reason.
They're made right here in America using 100% cotton military twill, with a classic fit that doesn't try too hard to be modern. They're substantial without being stiff, and they're the kind of pants I think will only get better with age.
We carry them at Primo Tailoring, and we're now offering them in green, too!
Shop PennBilt at Primo Tailoring
2. Duck Head — Gold School Chino
For the College Guy
If you're younger or just getting into classic menswear, Duck Head is a great place to start.
They've got plenty of colors, a comfortable fit, and just enough stretch to make them easy to wear all day.
The Gold School Chino uses 97% cotton and 3% spandex. It's a good compromise for the guy who wants to move away from jeans but isn't quite ready to give up that familiar comfort.
Shop Duck Head Gold School Chinos at Primo Tailoring
3. Barnstormer
For the Menswear Enthusiast
Here's one I don't sell, but I think deserves a spot on this list.
Barnstormer is a Japanese brand making some wonderful American-inspired trousers. They have that old-school military and Ivy League character, with excellent fabrics and a more traditional cut.
My buddy over at Old House Provisions carries them, and if you're looking to take your khaki game a little more seriously, I'd encourage you to check them out.
Shop Barnstormer Two-Pleat Chinos at Old House Provisions
4. Buck Mason — Big Chino
For the Relaxed-Fit Guy
Last on my list is the Big Chino from Buck Mason.
We don't sell these, but we do alterations on them, so I've had the chance to get familiar with their construction.
They're a solid pair of pants at a reasonable price for this category. They have a fuller leg and a higher rise, drawing inspiration from vintage military trousers.
If you're looking to experiment with a wider, more relaxed silhouette without going completely overboard, these are worth considering.
Shop Buck Mason Classic Khaki Big Chino
The Bottom Line
It may be time to throw away every five-pocket pant in your closet! There isn't much of a place for them...
But if you're looking for one simple way to improve your wardrobe, start with your khakis.
Find a pair with traditional slant pockets, a little more room through the leg, and a fabric that will actually age well.
You might be surprised how much more you enjoy getting dressed.
And remember, even the best pair of khakis won't look right if they don't fit. That's where a good tailor comes in.